Sparrow + Wolf

A Den of Hoisin-Glazed Pork Shoulder and Peanut-Infused Bourbon

Brian Howard's Sparrow + Wolf Takes Chinatown

By Sam Eichner ·
17ca7e6d32d3b9c1d1345681c2d9f44c17 PhotosSparrow + Wolf
Chinatown.

It's on record that you have nothing against lacquered meat, Russian novel-length menus and soup dumplings.

Especially soup dumplings.

Still, it’s totally understandable that you may want to stray from these parameters for the occasional hoisin-milk-stout-glazed pork shoulder.

At Sparrow + Wolf, a decadent mélange of live-fire American cooking and Asian influences from one of Vegas’s most inventive chefs, Brian Howard. It opens Wednesday in Chinatown, the slideshow contains meat and this menu is refreshingly manageable.

Swing by with an adventurous date any night of the week. Squeeze into a blue velvet banquette. Get unreasonably comfortable. It’s going to be a long night of sharing delicious things and drinking pineapple-rum libations with peanut-infused bourbon. An oddly, awesomely specific night.

For starters, order the nduja vinaigrette wings and Chinatown-inspired clams. Only then will you be ready to tackle the beef-cheek-and-bone-marrow dumplings and tender, hoisin-glazed pork shoulder. Dishes like those require a proper buildup.

But if it’s something extra-special you seek, ignore everything we just said and reserve a place at their weekly chef’s table dinner. It will probably incorporate a whole fire-roasted animal.

And by probably, we mean definitely.

Sam Eichner likes literature, reality television and his twin cats equally. He has consistently been told he needs a shave since he started growing facial hair.

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