Food

Once: Peruvian Cooking With a Japanese Lilt From Ricardo Zarate

Nikkei Cuisine, Pisco and Pancetta-Washed Rye

By Hadley Tomicki ·
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Linda Evans

Hi Vegas, meet Ricardo Zarate.

He definitely knows who you are.

Great. Now that introductions are through, you two can embark on your beautiful journey together.

At Once, his new restaurant opening Sunday inside the Grand Canal Shoppes at the Venetian and Palazzo.

Zarate is a huge deal in his native Peru and adopted LA, with multiple James Beard nominations to show for it. Now he wants to dedicate more time to feeding you and your friends his nikkei fare, fusing Peruvian and Japanese cuisine. All you'll need to do is eat it.

Just look for the neon green Once sign ("ohn-say," as in the number 11 in Spanish) and secure a table under the living plant wall or some other form of present vegetation. Next, start with something like a Bacon Me Borracho with pancetta-washed rye. Unless you feel remiss not doing Pisco.

The menu is composed of eleven items that rotate each week. Regardless, ceviche is a must. And as long as you're sharing traditional dishes like lomo saltado (sautéed filet mignon with fries) or grilled chicken with aji amarillo, consider balancing things out with oxtail bibimbap or fried Jidori chicken karaage.

Then you'll have dessert, go out, get drunk and do some crazy Vegas stuff.

Who knows? There may be other options.

Hadley Tomicki lives in Los Angeles. He is probably going nowhere on the 10 Freeway this very second.

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