Food

Something New and Something Really New

Lilia Is Here and Acme Is Back

E309e69a56ded27a4a89bfb4c57a0b5418 PhotosLilia and Acme
1. Missy Robbins: Beard nominee, occasional chef to the Obamas, Michelin-starred chef at A Voce. Person responsible for this... It’s Lilia (pictured left), and it’s a Williamsburg Italian spot the size of an auto garage because it used to be one.

First, you can take a good look at it and its food here. Good-looking stuff.

Here’s what you need to know...

—The garlic bread is pretty transcendent; it sports mozzarella and bottarga.

—They’ve got a couple wine cocktails, which we hope is a trend that picks up.

—You should take a date there.

—And you should urge them to get the veal Bolognese.

—Because you should get the grilled lamb steak.

—That’s it.

2. You’re acquainted with Acme. One of the great dinner scenes in the city. But here’s the thing: you’re actually not acquainted with it, because it just changed. Witness...

The Food
Then: Nordic.
Now: Italian and French from a former Daniel chef—think squid ink spaghetti with lobster, and clams casino with bone marrow and chowder. The spaghetti’s in here, so actually, no thinking necessary.

The Drinks
Then: Cocktails called Foxy Brown and Foxy Brown No. 2.
Now: Sadly those are gone. But the new cocktails are provided by a former Employees Only... employee, and wine was chosen by a NoMad and Eleven Madison Park vet.

Walls
Then: Pretty sparse and staid, other than that great arching mirror.
Now: Adorned with art from Julian Schnabel, Chuck Close and Alex Katz, plus that mirror.

Downstairs
Then: A doorman-manned cocktail lounge that occasionally broke out into a party palace.
Now: Still that.

Elsewhere on the Daddy

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