But here’s one subtle clue: if you encounter the city’s top chefs serving you an orgy of saucy barbecue in Little Italy, you’ve reached it.
Our advice: start hoarding wet-naps now. County Barbeque, the latest from the DMK Restaurant Group, opens Thursday.
This space was once Gennaro’s, the tough-as-nails Italian joint that required a buzzer to let you in. Well, they ditched that damn buzzer but stocked the bar with good whiskey, added black paneling and hung up a bunch of vintage American flags. It’s still homey enough, but now instead of marinara sauce, it smells like an unusually rich campfire.
Here, MK’s Erick Williams lords over the only Ole Hickory smoker in town (it cooks the meat perfectly even), turning out everything from veal brisket to that good old Chicago staple, rib tips. They also have burnt ends inspired by Kansas City. Mustardy pulled pork inspired by North Carolina. Slices of smoked bacon inspired by... your salacious and insatiable craving for bacon.
You’ll cap it all off with something simple. A watermelon slice. A spoonful of chocolate chip cookie dough. An ice cream sundae topped with a Snickers bar.
Sorry, cherries. You weren’t cutting it.