But the big story is what’s been happening in South Carolina. And it may just affect this town’s grits-eating habits forever.
Please welcome Carriage House, a handsome Rhett Butler of a Southern eatery, opening Tuesday in Wicker Park.
Here, chef Mark Steuer of the Bedford calls on his Johns Island, SC, connections. He’s tapped a grouper guy. He’s got the guy who runs a grits-milling operation down the street from his parents (convenient). He’s enlisted his own clam-digger, Clammer Dave—we’ll just assume you’re familiar with his work.
The result: a place where you can feel free letting loose with your inner Southern gentility. Hold forth on their patio—decked out in wrought iron and ferns—and knock back an antebellum-era punch.
The menu is mostly small plates, so you’ll gather around the large farm table in view of the kitchen and just start ordering things. Soon, you’ll be passing a big pot of white crab bisque with roe (called she-crab soup), shrimp and grits, and smoked pig ears doused with a hot sauce. You wouldn’t have your pig ears any other way.
When it comes to pig ears, frankly, you do give a damn.