Simple rules guide you through life: never judge a book by its cover. Never select a wine by its label. And never, ever judge a restaurant by its vaguely pornographic name.

So we present The Money Shot...which, okay, we admit, sounds all kinds of wrong. But when you're looking for a cozy gastropub with cocktails, some fine homemade fried chicken at the bar and mighty big (it must be said) meatballs, you're set.

But, seriously, should you happen to stumble upon this spot without knowing the name, you'd find that the velvet curtain and distressed wooden floors promise a low-key night of neighborhood elegance. Take up a seat on a side banquette and settle in for plates of Italian and American comforts: rigatoni with housemade marinara, mac in a housemade cream cheese, sausage and peppers.

Yet on weekends, when you're looking to exercise some of the libidinousness you've buttoned up during the week , the loungey side lets loose with DJs playing Top 40 songs. And while the beer selection is still on the light side, you'll find sustenance in a Watermelon Jolly Rancher (watermelon vodka, cranberry and Red Bull) or a Pink Poppin' (a vodka-lemonade-cranberry concoction).

They have drinks without cranberries too.