Paowalla

Floyd Cardoz Is Back in Town

Checking the Hype at Paowalla

By Geoff Rynex ·
Ee7701f316a54606eccd6671eef2033d5 PhotosPaowalla
The Place: Paowalla, allegedly your next destination for great Indian fare, now open in SoHo from Floyd Cardoz.

Cardoz is of course the man who ran the kitchen at the dearly departed and much missed Tabla, then North End Grill (also a Danny Meyer effort), and then White Street. Afterward, he absconded to Mumbai to open up a spot there. But he’s back in town, with this. Everyone’s very excited, so we went to check it out for ourselves, and for you. Here are the results.

The Hype: After some diversions, Cardoz is back to more creative, Tabla-like stuff.
The Reality: Yes, for example, a king-size biryani featuring chorizo and bacon and pork ribs vindaloo.

The Hype: The breads are noteworthy.
The Reality: Confirmed. There are eight types, including a bacon-stuffed naan and a cheddar-stuffed one.

The Hype: His acumen with spices remains impressive.
The Reality: Even the cocktails get in on the action, with a gin cocktail featuring turmeric and an Old Fashioned with cloves.

The Hype: You can’t walk out without having the fries.
The Reality: It’s true. They’ve got coconut, garlic and chilies, and if you only get those, it’ll be worth it.

The Hype: It’s a “bring friends” kind of place.
The Reality: There’s a lot to share and a lot of tapas-style options. Save the dates for somewhere else.

The Hype: You can take a look around here.
The Reality: Obviously.

Geoff Rynex is the only person named Geoff Rynex in the history of mankind. He would rather have the best burger than the best steak, likes hearing bartender stories and spends too much money on clothes.

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