Rojo Gusano

Dudley Do-Right

Dudley Nieto’s Making You Tacos. Good Ones.

1a3dfb7b1ece1c960ba48784c1512eb710 PhotosRojo Gusano
Yesterday was weird.

Sixty degrees. A little humid. Definitely still mid-December...

Anyway, we only bring it up because it reminded us of summer, summer reminded us of tacos, and tacos reminded us of Rojo Gusano.

It’s a beachside taqueria marooned in Albany Park with beer-braised pork shank, spicy pumpkin seed guacamole and no shortage of mezcal. It’s also open now, and here’s the slideshow and the menu to prove it.

You may remember the chef—Dudley Nieto—because of his work at Mezcalina. Or simply because his name is Dudley. Either way, he’s the man in charge here. And last we checked, he still makes one hell of a taco.

We recommend gathering a few friends here after a particularly taxing Monday. Say, a Monday like this Monday. You’ll split some of that pumpkin seed guacamole and some chorizo-and-bacon beans before graduating to individual plates of charred butternut squash and beer-braised pork shank tacos. The word “individual” is an important word.

And don’t be surprised if, later in the evening, you catch yourself sipping a chili-rimmed mezcalita or scorpion añejo, staring at the white surfboard behind the bar, pleasantly envisioning better days spent lazing about on white-sand beaches...

Or just going home, but the other way seems better.

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