Le snow cone.
Le egg roll.
Le French’d fried chicken wings.
Wow. You’re already fluent in Cochon Volant, a charming bit of Franco-American-brasserie business that’s open as of today in the heart of the Loop. (The slideshow’s here and the menu’s here.)
If you’re wondering who has enough cheek to turn a classic croque madame into a croque madame egg roll and duck confit into a French dip, the answer is Roland Liccioni.
Yes, of Les Nomades. He’s employed a young crew of chefs and mixed-drinks people from places like Gilt and Schwa to create something kind of classic, yet kind of... not.
The inside is simple. To your left—morning croissants, espresso and bananas Foster waffles. Swing to the right toward the dining room for working lunches over bacon-topped Le Cheeseburger Royales or some pre–Book of Mormon steak frites.
But let’s say it’s after work. You’re tired and you need something cold and refreshing. You’ll sit down at the center bar. You’ll look up to notice some sort of ice-shaving contraption. That’s for the Shave of the Day, a snow-cone-style libation that might be fortified with Chartreuse, tequila or whatever the bartender feels like.
It’s the “whatever” part that always gets you.