1) Never play cards with a man called Doc.
2) Never eat at a place called Mom’s.
3) Never sleep with a woman whose troubles are worse than your own.
So after carefully cross-checking with Rule No. 2, we’ve determined you’re all clear for Dove’s Luncheonette, a new counter-service throwback from the Big Star guys, now open. (See the slideshow here.)
It’s named after a character in Algren’s 1956 classic, Walk on the Wild Side, but it has all the gritty charm of a 1970s smoked-filled diner—stools, heavy mugs of strong joe and a jukebox heavy on blues and soul. Though smoking is strictly relegated to the brisket in your taco norteño now.
In addition to Algren’s three rules, we’ve found three for this joint:
1) Always spend an extra $1.
Marvelous things will happen: a fried egg will appear on anything you want. (See the menu here.) And a sangrita back will appear with your tequila or mezcal.
2) Always order cocktails that use Mexican Squirt.
Mexican Squirt is the best.
3) Always pace yourself if you see a menu with more than 70 mezcals and tequilas.
Feel free to ignore that last rule.