Spiaggia

Return Notice

Caviar and Cheese Balloons on the Mag Mile

2bb33cc5815927bf5712da4decb7d0f783ad398710 PhotosSpiaggia
1984: A banner year for Apple Computer, Mary Lou Retton, George Orwell’s publisher and one fancy Italian restaurant overlooking Oak Street Beach.

2014: Looking pretty good for one of the above.

Reacquaint yourself with Spiaggia, which closed in January only to be thoroughly modernized, remodeled and outfitted with the latest in caviar-delivery devices, reopening Friday.

Okay, it’s not thoroughly changed. Chef/partner/founder/pasta genius Tony Mantuano still has that gnocchi swimming in ricotta cream. Everything else, though... let’s take a look.

The Space
Then: Floor-to-ceiling windows, views of Oak and Michigan, three tiers of seating. Very, very tan.
Now: White porcelain floors, a 1,700-bottle wine cellar as the entrance, a laid-back front bar conveniently outfitted with power outlets. It’s also conveniently outfitted with Bee’s Knees cocktails served in honey jars.

The Food
Then: Elaborate meals revolving around pasta, caviar and black truffles.
Now: Well, all of that. But entirely different. The new chef serves caviar on inflated balloons of mozzarella, for instance. You’ll adjust.

The Reservations
Then: Needed them.
Now: Still do. But there’s a new no-reservations “come as you are” lounge. We suggest you come with a date prepared to order carbonara by the gram.

The Dress Code
Then: Gentlemen needed a jacket.
Now: No jacket required.

Hey, bring Phil Collins.

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