Food

The Change-Up

Your Guide to Three Revamped Restaurants

7a0b7670b6301ff623a5daa20082a65cc6aa3efe20 PhotosTopolobampo, Japonais by Morimoto and Boka
Change is good. Embrace it. Especially when it comes bearing foie gras, whiskey and/or mole. Speaking of which: here’s the rundown on what you need to know about the makeovers of Topolobampo, Japonais by Morimoto and Boka.

The Touch-Up
The Place: Topolobampo, est. 1989.
Before: White tablecloths; serious art; mole to melt your heart.
After: New table settings; a wine station; and a painting of Zeus disguised as a swan ravishing a woman. (It’s subtle.) The real twist: it’s all tasting menus. (Right now, that includes the Mexico City 1491, with frog leg tamales—so hard to find these days.)

The Reboot
The Place: Japonais by Morimoto, est. 2003 as Japonais.
Before: An East-meets-West pleasure dome, filled with celebrities eating sushi.
After: Brighter interiors; an elevated sushi bar; plus the chef is now also a celebrity. “Iron Chef” Morimoto brings hamachi tacos, foie gras oysters, seven-course omakase menus, plus a lounge bar featuring extensive shōchū and Japanese whiskey options.

The Extreme Makeover
The Place: Boka, est. 2003.
Before: Upscale. Refined. Sexy.
After: Upscale. Refined. Sexy. But darker sexy, moodier sexy, edgier sexy, black-paint-and-skylights-and-a moss-wall-er sexy. (Sometimes even sexy needs a tweak.) Also, new chef Lee Wolen (from the Lobby at the Peninsula) means you probably can’t go wrong with...

Well, anything.

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