You love dinner at Moto. The things that chef Homaro Cantu creates with a little liquid nitrogen and some beets—genius.

But even culinary mavericks like you can't do multicourse molecular gastronomy every night.

A little dessert, on the other hand, you could probably make room for...

Introducing iCream, slated to open by Thursday in Wicker Park.

A sci-fi ice-cream parlor, iCream employs massive liquid-nitrogen tanks to churn customized ice cream flavors on the fly, freeing you from the pink shackles of 31 flavors.

And there's real intelligence behind the high-tech approach. Quick-freezing prevents ice crystals, ensuring your bowl is suitably rich and appropriately decadent.

How it works: You and your date will stroll up to a bank of touch screens and choose your level of indulgence (full-throttle cream, low-cal skim, soy, frozen yogurt, sorbet). Then from a palette of flavor extracts like peanut butter, cream soda and root beer, you'll mix and match to create Grape and Peanut Butter (a classic), Burnt Sugar and Vanilla (call it crème brulee) or Irish Cream, Chocolate, Banana and Mint (why not).

A team of "chemists" will combine your ingredients before sticking the batch under a modified KitchenAid mixer, where the sub-zero elixir—liquid nitrogen—is pumped in. About 90 seconds later, you're indulging.

And, just maybe, screaming.