Paris Club

Frite for All

Like Hub 51 on the Champs-Elysées...

17a04f3ecd1818fedb4b204401fcd94f47e4d3f76 PhotosParis Club
Paris. City of romance. Of light. Of impossibly long-legged first ladies.

And we haven’t even gotten to the pig’s feet bonbons.

In other words, it’s not unlike what you’ll find at Paris Club, opening Wednesday as your new destination for nights of champagne, caviar and duck cracklings, all set amid a soaring mashup between a Left Bank bistro and an underground Montmartre nightclub.

The space had a running start on nailing the whole French thing—it’s the former Brasserie Jo space—and four-star chef Jean Joho (Everest) has teamed up with the Melman brothers (Hub 51) to shake things up a bit.

Now the space is all exposed brick and studded girders. Very laid-back. It’s worth arriving just a bit early to settle in at the bar for a Gin Gin, a gin/grapefruit/ginger liqueur cocktail (which basically begs you to order it as a double). DJs will be setting the tempo on weekends, and since the pinot noir pours from a spigot, there won’t be corks constantly being waved under your nose.

But say you’re on a date. Get that corner table in the dining room—there you’ll be summoning oysters, escargots in puff pastry, lamb meatballs, insanely crispy frites served with gruyère béchamel to dip them in and Drippings on Toast, a savory meat mélange that makes those cheesy frites look like health food.

Which, of course, they are in France.

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