Food

This Is How Michelin-Starred Chef John Fraser Does a Tavern

Supremely Delicious Burgers and Classic Cocktails in the West Village

By Ilana Dadras ·
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Photo: Oleg March

You know what they call a Quarter Pounder with Cheese at John Fraser's new restaurant? 

They call it a Loyale with cheese.

This abridged and all-around butchered Pulp Fiction pun was inspired by the Loyal: hands down the best-looking new brasserie in town, now open in the West Village and ready to ply you with delicious burgers and duck-fat tots.

Moving on from shameful wordplay, let's have a look around the joint. You'll see it's all browns and tans, with a whimsical mural depicting a dancing eggplant and a couple of lounging carrots, plus interesting marble and mirrored accents in an all-around pleasing Art Deco-y vibe. 

Now, do whatever you need to do, but we'd suggest summoning four of your closest friends and snagging that deep yellow curved booth in the front, because that is clearly the best seat in the house.  

Let's say you post up there. Start with something classic, like their riff on the old-fashioned or one of their hundred-plus wines. Next you'll check out the menu, which is a little like Fraser's Narcissa. 

There's a raw bar if you're in the mood for tuna tartare with shisho and jicama, or chopped steak with guindilla peppers and olives. There's a whole lot of meat and pasta: a roasted lamb dish with Moroccan pilaf, a bone-in strip alongside bistro mushrooms... then there's the aforementioned comte and roasted tomato-topped burger served with duck fat tots that would make any fry insecure.

Fries, your mom still thinks you're special in your own way.

Anyway, let's have a look at those tots, because damn.

Ilana Dadras passes her days writing about good food, talking about good food and consuming good food. Occasionally doing other things, too.

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