Barbara Jean

It’s Soul Food. Particularly Beautiful Soul Food.

Time for Truffle-Honey Hush Puppies and Spanish Wine on Melrose

By Hadley Tomicki
2f94924dcc9bda99d8a401fe16eb50869 PhotosBarbara Jean
You did it.

You made it through La La Land and Warren Beatty and dancing Timberlake.

Now you’re in desperate need of soul food.

Or soul anything.

So it shall be that this Friday, you visit Barbara Jean. It’s a new soul food spot from Campanile/Patina vet Jason Fullilove, and it’s now open Fridays and Saturdays for dinner and Sundays for brunch on Melrose.

You’ll find it among the embers of Smoke.Oil.Salt. The snug, starry-eyed rooms are mostly the same date-friendly nooks you’ll recall. Only now with some framed graffiti on the walls and a tall dreadlocked chef cutting and tweezing things between the open kitchen and wood-fired grill.

That’s Jason. He’s going to make you and whomever you’re squiring around a procession of soul-food-inspired dishes with various touches from all the places he’s cooked in and eaten at in the world. Things like curry fried chicken, truffle-honey hush puppies and apple crumble with mezcal dulce de leche. Things that look really pretty. Like this.

You’ll enjoy those delectables in tasting-menu form or by individually selecting each one. You know how that works. Anyway, they’ll be paired thoughtfully to some very good Spanish wines, beers and ciders from the previous occupant’s stash.

Hey, as long as it’s there...

Hadley Tomicki lives in Los Angeles. He is probably going nowhere on the 10 Freeway this very second.

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