Fish Cheeks

Fashion Week’s Runaway Dinner Hit

It’s Fish Cheeks, and It’s Thai Seafood in NoHo

By Geoff Rynex
877425c926280342bef0a9752cd32d188 PhotosFish Cheeks
Here’s a fact about Bond Street between Bowery and Lafayette: if you’re hoping to see a celebrity, your best bet in this city is that block.

Strange but true.

Here’s another fact about that location: it’s now home to Fish Cheeks, an airy NoHo den of models, primary colors and, most importantly, Thai seafood. It’s open now.

The lads behind this venture come from, respectively, Nahm, which is arguably the best restaurant in Thailand, and Colicchio & Sons, which you know. That sentence will serve as credentials.

Now, once you’re in, with some fashionable friends or a casual date, you’ll want to focus on the whole fish—the branzino with fried garlic and fish sauce broth, or the lemongrass-paste-stuffed porgy with nam jim seafood (that one can be seen here in the slideshow). Alternately, you can go with Shrimp in 3 Crabs Sauce or an unnecessarily excellent version of fried chicken, because those are things they also make.

As for the drink circumstances, right now it’s limited to wine. But rest assured that once the noble order of the liquor authoritarians grants Fish Cheeks its license, Dev Johnson of Employees Only fame will have a cocktail menu ready for the drinking.

You could do worse.

Geoff Rynex is the only person named Geoff Rynex in the history of mankind. He would rather have the best burger than the best steak, likes hearing bartender stories and spends too much money on clothes.

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