Just the tale of a journeyman Alsatian chef who appears to be attempting to create the best restaurant in New York.
Call him and his place Gabriel Kreuther, the kind of impressive, sweeping Midtown French spot they don’t make so much anymore, now open just off Bryant Park.
You ought to know Gabe by now. He won a Beard Award for being the city’s best chef while he was handling things at the Modern. So, you know, great to see him back on his feet after taking a break to build this for you.
What he’s also built for you: cocktails, wine (obviously) and an à la carte situation in the lounge. That’ll include tartes flambées that are as legendary as it gets in the tarte flambée enthusiast community.
In the main dining room (which is all slideshowed out here, right down to the crystal stork mobile), a four-course prix fixe for the late meal and a two-courser for the power-lunch crowd. Expect winsome plates of 10-day-cured beef tenderloin and lardo-poached lobster and things topped generously with caviar.
Needless to say, it’s a dive.