The Hype: It’s less divey than before.
The Reality: Uh-huh. Think classy version of a classic Chinatown spot now. Big round tables with pink tablecloths and glass lazy Susans included. Plus, a Mylar ceiling. It’s downright date-like. Okay, so you might miss the red plastic water tumblers a little. Classic.
The Hype: The lines stretch around the block.
The Reality: If you get there right at opening time, you’ll be fine. If not, bring a book. Side note: there’re legit bars up front and downstairs for creative loitering.
The Hype: The drinks are superb.
The Reality: Big yes. We recommend the Dr. Jacoby’s Coconut, in which scotch is mixed with coconut, green tea, pineapple and lime juices, and a togarashi-salt rim. It comes out the opposite of terrible.
The Hype: The menu’s all new.
The Reality: Not quite. But Danny Bowien’s a restless guy, so we’ll see. There’s still the legendary ma po tofu, but there’s also a whole fish served drunken-style. You won’t complain.
Trust us, you won’t complain.