Devil’s Acre

Devil’s Worship

The Bourbon & Branch Team’s Bi-Level Saloon

F7eb173e130e24dc9ec7a79744f05f967 PhotosDevil’s Acre
San Francisco. 1849.

It was a simpler time.

Everyone still had pretty much the same taste in bars, though.

They’d hang out in places that looked a lot like Devil’s Acre, a double-decker saloon of herbal elixirs paying homage to the Gold Rush era, open now in North Beach. (Here’s the slideshow.)

This place used to be Jazz at Pearl’s. And before that, it was part of the Barbary Coast. Anyway, there’s everything you’d expect in a self-respecting saloon: a pair of handsome bars involving mahogany and leather, low ceilings, cream sodas and a blue-wallpapered pharmacy stocked with tonics and tins of herbs. 

In other words, it’s the sort of place all of John Wayne’s characters would’ve frequented, though he probably wouldn’t have ordered a cream soda.

As far as why you’d come here and get the 22-page menu in your hands, there are a handful of scenarios: to treat a cold with an Immunity Tonic—it’s got elderberry, echinacea and rose hip syrup. To nurse a hangover with a marshmallow-root-and-meadowsweet elixir.

To go to a bar and get a drink...

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