Big steakhouse potential.
Make way for Oliver’s Prime, the new steak shrine in the lobby where Boa was born, opening tonight at the Grafton on Sunset.
Here’s a return to proper chophouse form: a shadowy retreat with black walls, pearlescent chairs, fish-eye mirrors and white leather booths. Dusky would be one way to describe the lighting. “Mistress-appropriate” would be another.
What you want to do is treat this like you would your other red-meat standby—round up the clients and their dates, and settle into a curtained-off private booth. Then it’s custom-rubbed filets (yes, they let you pick the rub here), Dungeness crab rolls (you knew there’d be shellfish) and red wine. Probably a fair bit of red wine.
And if you return in a couple of weeks, they’ll have an outside patio overlooking a huge swath of the city open.
Twist your arm, why don’t they.