A good rule of thumb: If it's not broke, don't fix it. Just add more wine.

To wit: Terragusto on Armitage, a spinoff of the Wrigleyville BYOB trattoria, opening Friday.

While the noodle-making may have moved to the kitchen, this new Armitage branch hasn't messed with your Pasta Neri con Gamberetti (black pasta with shrimp)—the menu is identical to the original. Even the narrow, second-floor shotgun of a space recalls Wrigleyville's snug allure. Grab a seat at the counter or in one of the soon-to-be-arriving banquettes (they'll be here by Valentine's Day), and you'll practically be able to touch both walls at the same time (okay, it helps if you're currently in the NBA).

The most profound change is this spot relieves you of that liquor-store run before coming in. You'll find a hearty, Italian-heavy wine list with some of the best values in the city—the house red is $4 per glass and $14 for a half-liter. Or if you prefer arriving Chianti in hand, the corkage is $3.

Call it the best of both (old) worlds.