Food

Four Score

Four-Star Dining at 4am


This Sunday at 2am, it will be 1am.
 
Daylight Savings. For one magical night, you and the hard stuff will have 60 glorious extra minutes together. After which you’ll be feeling especially peckish. And while we don’t want to disparage the cheese slice, on this special occasion you deserve something a little more... critically acclaimed. Allow us to present your guide to four-star dining at 4am. Also known as 5am.

The Place: Forte Baden Baden
The Dish: Sliced Pigs’ Feet
The Magic: You’re in Koreatown. You may have stayed for one karaoke song too long (“Hungry Eyes” wasn’t going to sing itself). This hidden gem on the menu of a hidden gem of a Korean restaurant is pigs’ feet, deboned, sliced and dripping with enough sesame oil to soak up all the excess soju you’re carrying.

Forte Baden Baden, 28 W 32nd St (between Fifth and Broadway), 2nd Floor, 212-714-2266

The Place: The Standard Grill
The Dish: End-of-the-Night Omelette
The Magic: You boom boomed. And now you need a buffer between what happened on the 18th floor and the cold world outside. We’re thinking eggs. Accompanied by an exceedingly large bottle of truffle oil.

The Place: Employees Only
The Dish: Reuben Croquettes
The Magic: You’re in the West Village. The Rusty Knot called, and you answered. At this point, a regular Reuben won’t do. Instead, take pastrami, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese, ball them up, and then deep, deep fry them. And carry on like nothing happened.

The Place: The Ace Hotel
The Dish: The Breslin Burger 
The Magic: You’re in NoMad. The Ace Hotel has been a gracious host. You don’t want to leave. A charbroiled beef burger, peppered with sharp aged cheddar and bacon, is something rare, precious and greasy in all the right ways.

The Place: L’Express
The Dish: Escargot
The Magic: You’re in Gramercy, you just had your own Rose Bar session, and energy is running low. 24-hour L’Express lets your 4am lust for snails drift into what others might consider breakfast time but you think of merely as a buttery nightcap.

L’Express, 249 Park Ave South (at 20th St), 212-254-5858

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