Ris and Shine

Comfort Food in the West End

None 4 Photos Restaurant Ris
Let's stipulate this right now: there's nothing wrong with your tastes running a little exotic.

We're talking, of course, about cuisine—Afghan, Ethiopian, Eritrean, even a little blowfish every now and again.

And yet, Thanksgiving was there to remind you: American comfort food is tough to beat. Also reminding you, as it opens its doors today: RIS, the solo venture from Ris Lacoste, the longtime chef at 1789.

Think of the space as an all-purpose neighborhood hangout—from free WiFi and full-time baristas for your espresso needs, to salmon in mushroom broth and spiced lamb shank for more dinner-focused endeavors.

It even looks the all-purpose part—bare wood tables in one section, white tablecloths in another, slate tile floors in the bar, and floor-to-ceiling windows and dark, bold tapestries in the dining room.

No matter the hour, selecting your base of operations shouldn't be hard: ask for table 40. A recessed power booth facing the granite bar and lounge, it lets you survey the scene while still enjoying some privacy. Settle in with a Boont Amber or one of their other five microbrews on tap and order up the Nantucket Bay Scallop "Margarita," a ceviche of sorts, topped with tequila granita.

In coming weeks you'll be able to sample Lacoste's breakfast menu, as well as a family-style Sunday supper. But for now, the daily specials, pegged to the day of the week, are always a good bet: Meatloaf Mondays, "Little Italy" Wednesdays, and Saturday means steak and potatoes.

Or what Lacoste calls the "rookie date night" menu.

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