Terra at Eataly L.A.

Behold: Eataly's Wood-Burning, Gin-Slinging, Completely Remarkable Rooftop

It's Going to Be Hard to Come Down From Here

By Hadley Tomicki ·
123774450c79893f462aac420f78127e16 PhotosTerra at Eataly L.A.

Rain, rain, go away.

And some smoked duck and wood-grilled wild tuna would also be nice.

At least those last two miracles of nature are imminent at Terra, Eataly's wood-fired, gin-loving rooftop crown, opening Thursday looking precisely like this.

You'll scale spiral stairs past Eataly's wine section to arrive opposite a network of wood-burning grills sizzling with wild seafood, ranch-bred meat and local vegetables, and dripping hunks of Italian cheese suspended over the smoke.

Or you'll hand the keys to valet, take the direct entrance and arrive by elevator. Point is, cheese and smoke and meat.

Things feel joyous in the dining room with hovering plants, a gracefully curving cocktail bar and the potential for lively chatter about whoever is squirreled away in that private room behind the kitchen.

But then, there's the sizable outdoor patio with a 20-year-old olive tree, a garden, sprawling views and a cabin full of international gins called Bar Botanico. Make a mental note to come back some sunny evening for the G&T No. 3, pairing Imea Gineprina d'Olanda with strawberries, rhubarb and mint.

But for now, you're going big at a table with Brunello and friends. Which means skewers of mutton or heritage pork. It also means large, shareable servings of wild grilled lobster and that smoked Peking duck.

Just know, the decisions you make now will affect your reception of the roving gelato cart later.

Don't make it come all your way for nothing.

Hadley Tomicki lives in Los Angeles. He is probably going nowhere on the 10 Freeway this very second.

Elsewhere on the Daddy

More Food in Los Angeles