Food

LA’s Best Peruvian Chef Returns With Rosaliné

Smoked Pisco and Amazonian River Fish Chicharron Under a Retractable Roof for Everyone

By Hadley Tomicki ·
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Photo: Alen Lin (main); Forked Up (top)
The Transformers are back this summer.

Yep.

Spider-Man, too.

Mmhm.

Oh, and also Ricardo Zarate.

That last comeback? That’s something to get excited about.

Because it pertains directly to Rosaliné, the maternally inspired return of LA’s Peruvian master chef, opening Monday on Melrose. Take a look around. It’s all quite majestic.

You’re walking into a rather cheery and attractive realm of bright tiles and lush woods under hanging plants and a retractable ceiling. And you’re doing that with friends, dates, business partners, hell, entire baseball teams... anyone down to join you at the small ceviche bar to eat live-scallop-and-uni tiradito while watching whole branzino dry over coals in the open kitchen.

Or you’ll head straight back to the dining room or long back patio table to get down to business. First order: procuring something like the Bellicose Warrior with mesquite-smoked pisco, aji amarillo, pineapple, lemon, curacao and kümmel. Second order: drinking that.

Then, you’ll ease into what’s commonly known as dinner. Perhaps you’ll start with Amazonian river fish chicharrón and beef heart skewers before dipping into a very sharable Peruvian paella with la chang sausage, prawns, pancetta and bagoong.

If only so you can say “bagoong.”

Hadley Tomicki lives in Los Angeles. He is probably going nowhere on the 10 Freeway this very second.

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