21 Greenpoint

A Neighborhood Spot from Homer Murray and Co.

It’s Like River Styx, but Different

By Ilana Dadras ·
6f7359e9e69ae9c79ec38327b60c556515 Photos21 Greenpoint
If you haven’t heard, and you’ve probably heard, Bill Murray bartended in Brooklyn this weekend.

There were block-long lines. There was Bill, housing tequila shots. There was more excitement than surprise, all around.

And now, 21 Greenpoint is left in the wake. It’s a neighborhood spot equally suited for group outings and somewhat casual dates. It’s opening for good this Wednesday.

The team behind this venture consists of Syd Silver of Roebling Tea Room and River Styx, and Homer Murray, who co-owned River Styx with Syd. The spot itself is where that used to be, and looks similar—it’s got an unpretentious, homey, almost summery sort of vibe.

Once inside, stride past the palm tree and the bar, past the open kitchen, and settle into a wooden table in the back. Spend a few moments scanning the still-being-fine-tuned drinks menu, which happens to be so long, it necessitates a table of contents. It’s crafted by a Daniel, Le Bernardin and Dirty French vet, so you’ll probably spot something you like. Maybe, say, the Cucumber Vesper (cucumber vodka, gin, Lillet Blanc, celery shrub, lemon oil), which comes in a glass sprayed with liquid nitrogen, or the particularly good-looking hurricane glass filled with banana rum and tiki bitters.

Food-wise, the ex–Extra Fancy chef is behind an ever-changing menu of things like steak tartare on roasted bone marrow with lamb-fat bread, wood-fire-roasted whole porgy and salmon-pastrami-topped rye. He’s stressing using mostly local and usually discarded ingredients; there’s actually an appetizer dedicated to ugly vegetables.

Every vegetable deserves a chance.

Ilana Dadras cannot discern between situations in which sarcasm is and is not appropriate. Her favorite things include mezcal cocktails, Big Sur and writing about herself in the third person.

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