Game

Animal House

A Colorful Den of Game, Wine and Taxidermy

9c35b760cd31f2c9b447483dcc993a207db9879a6 PhotosGame
It was known there would be no replacing Masa’s.

It was known.

Unless...

Unless someone brought in some elk burgers and a deer head in uniform.

Then maybe. Yeah. Actually, that could work.

And that would be Game, a quirky, animals-everywhere hall of fur, hide, meat and wine, open tomorrow on Bush. (Here’s the menu, and here’s the slideshow.)

This used to be Masa’s. Then it closed and people were bummed. Then the team behind Michelin-starred All Spice came around, and they decided on a look that could’ve been borrowed from Teddy Roosevelt’s trophy room. Think: cowhide bar stools, anthropomorphic paintings and that taxidermied deer head in military garb.

Start off at the bar with a bourbon-spiked Pumpkin Moon, or a Bijou with gin and sweet vermouth. Then head to one of the mohair benches for gamey dishes from a Commis alum—like roasted venison, whole braised goat and that elk burger.

Anyway, this meal probably isn’t going to be a quick one. Take your time. Give proper deference to the animal art. And to the good wines from their 2,700-bottle-deep cellar.

It’s not hoarding if it’s wine.

Elsewhere on the Daddy

More Food in San Francisco