Tonight, you could make yourself a nice sandwich.

Or... you could let Roy Choi make you a French dip in a lush rooftop greenhouse with some good drinks.

You always face down such tough decisions on Friday nights.

Finally, it’s here—meet Commissary, Choi’s stunning new glass conservatory stuffed with vegetation you admire and vegetation you devour (also, meats and drinks), now open at K-Town’s Line Hotel.

You’re taking a chummy group of mixed -vores up to the second-floor rooftop. Before you stands a beautiful, full-size greenhouse. It’s the only one on earth serving Matt Biancaniello’s White Fir cocktails with piney amaro and passion fruit in giant plastic containers that could hold a bowl of soup to go. But yeah. Not soup.

Once you’re seated, your table gets a fat manila envelope addressed to someone you don’t know. Go ahead, open it. Inside, there are what we’ll call illustrated menus—hey, there’s a drawing of that French dip, there are some clams and a carrot and an eggplant—and a separate key to sort out what you’re having.

The French dip is on a sourdough roll with American cheese.

The carrots are carrots.