Saint Martha

Saint Misbehavin’

A Strip Mall Stunner with 50 Wines by the Glass

C5d461a323ea24c97fc8e7be45f26d04443155278 PhotosSaint Martha
Big night planned at the Wiltern.

The band’s going on around 10. But you’re really looking forward to the opening act:

There’s a chorus involving 50 wines and a verse about smoked brisket...

Lighters in the air for Saint Martha, an intriguing new restaurant serving uncommon wines and beer, smoked brisket and seafood, opening Friday on Western near the Wiltern.

Pre-Haim (or whoever), you’ll bring your friends to this janky strip mall down the street, open the red door and discover a small, candlelit dining room with tastefully defaced oil paintings, leather banquettes and walls that look like they’ve been ripped. Unripped walls are just less credible sometimes.

You’ll want to sit at the white marble bar looking straight into the open kitchen of shiny white bricks. So you can watch your sea urchin being bruléed, your spot prawns getting tartared and your bone marrow butter entering beignets.

Plus this place takes your drinking pretty seriously. There are 50 unusual wines by the glass from a Boulud vet—and she knows where to find oyster stout and German beer made by nuns. If you like those, cool. Enjoy. They probably won’t be there the next time.

There’s a fairly stern policy against reentry.

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