... the alfresco experience, sans all the public exposure.
Head toward the amply shrubbed outdoor terrace. It’s got all the rainbow-chopsticked, shiitake-topped glory of the inside restaurant, plus a delightful abundance of sunlight and a tall, sound-muffling, tinted-glass buffer between you and the rest of the world.
... dumplings with a side of light show.
This is from the brothers Koch—the same enterprising sparkler-peddlers behind Day & Night. Which means an elevated DJ booth tucked inside a massive angular mirror wall will mark your entrance into an evening of lobster dumplings and long-bone short ribs.
... a table for 14.
Don’t bring a date. At least not a promising one. Bring a group that’ll decorate the deceptively wooded dining room nicely before you all head to even dancier pastures.
... the absurdity.
Look, there’s a massive silk screen of an Asian woman with a face tattoo hanging over the place. Don’t fight this. Just laugh it off, find someone else who’s laughing it off and buy them a drink.