Double or Nothing

Burgers in Noe Valley and Indian in Nob Hill

None 11 Photos Novy and All Spice
1. Here’s a new Mediterranean-friendly spot in the old Panos location.

Nature versus nurture: one of those eternal questions.

How could we ever properly account for one’s deep abiding love of feta?

Consider Novy, brought to you by the daughters of the couple behind the old Greek restaurant Panos, open now in that same location.

It’s woodsy and open all day, with dark cedar planks for walls, polished cement for floors and feta-topped burgers for meals. And souvlaki and quesadillas and California wine. Feta’s just about everywhere, in honor of Panos.

Cheese is always a good tribute.

2. And Game is All Spice now. Feels right.

Gone are all the animal portraits. Gone is the game-heavy menu.

Still here: the military-uniformed deer head, and the cream-colored tablecloths.

Lot of change going on, but in short—after a round of Penicillins, you’ll recognize the menu from the Michelin-starred All Spice in San Mateo, what with the Indian bread fritters and the Ode to My Wife (it’s slow-poached trout).

But you do need to investigate. Because about one in five menu items is new, like the elk osso buco and the sea toast, topped with tiny plants, oysters and caviar.

So that’s two down...

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