The Commissary

Military Time

Once an Army Mess Hall, Now a Glorious Restaurant

None 7 Photos The Commissary
1895: The old Army barracks of Infantry Row are built in the heart of the Presidio.

Today: Here comes The Commissary, a Spanish hall of sangria, octopus and paella in the former barracks’ mess hall, opening tonight. Sangria generally represents progress...

The chef behind Jardinière, Mijita and Public House helped make this place happen, so now... you go help make this place happen. What you’ll want to do is go in for dinner with a date.

Note the big porch. That’ll be nice on a warm night soon.

Note the front room, with a bar, a shop selling wine and olive oil and stuff, and some tables where you could stop and sit. No. You’re not stopping.

Well, there was a bar...

No. You’re not stopping.

You’re going to the black marble counter in the main room beyond, which wraps around the open kitchen—the whole room’s lit with old fixtures from the Army gym. Pull out two chairs. Sit in one of them. See, this is the chef’s counter, so all your crispy potatoes, sardines escabeche, sweet-pea-and-ham croquetas, octopus and potatoes, vegetarian paella and New York steak with mojo verde are put together right in front of you.

Just how you like your steak.

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