Varuni Napoli

Pie Hard

A New Neapolitan Pizza Joint Does Midtown

620e5122d51e0eb4cf017f9a0607881e7ad12cd86 PhotosVaruni Napoli
There’s something in the air this week.

Pollen.

But there’s also something else in the air this week.

Italy.

Because sure enough, another gift straight from the motherland is coming in the form of Varuni Napoli, a massive new pizzeria with an Antico vet in the kitchen and prosecco on tap in the dining room, opening next Wednesday in Midtown.

It’s sort of a deceivingly big place. Once you pass the pickup window on the street and enter a giant room with a bar and an open kitchen, you might assume that’s the extent of it. But keep going. There’s still a four-top chef’s table. A back patio. Communal tables in a hallway lined with tomato and olive oil cans...

Your goal is to land one of the 24 seats at the pizza bar. Ask for a Bastardo (pepperoni, spicy pork sausage, buffalo mozzarella). They’ll throw it in an imported brick oven while you procure some prosecco on tap or a draft Moretti. Seems like a nice use of your time.

And they’ll be open for lunch on the weekends. So if it’s nice out, maybe bypass everything for that shady little tree-lined patio tucked away in the back.

They can’t make you leave.

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