What it’s also got: lines.
Here then: a work-around.
Namely, reserving a table at the market’s first full restaurant, Bidwell, which opens tonight at 5:30.
This place is named for John Bidwell, a presidential candidate, Army general and creator of an heirloom melon (useful info if you ever find yourself facing an “Heirloom Melons” category on Jeopardy).
Anyway, you’ll breeze past the hordes in the market and head right into this concrete-and-glass dining room. Grab a table along the windows, or request the chef’s counter, if you’re into seeing them prep your fried deviled eggs and Gin & Tonic Wild Salmon.
Or show up earlier for weekend brunch, where you’ll find grilled cheese with white-truffle oil and a slow-poached egg.
Of course, if you just want to take a quick break from your meat shopping, they can help you out there, too, with the 18-seat marble bar. That’s where you’ll find six drafts, another 22 bottles, warm gløgg and the chef’s specialty drink, the Soup of the Day (aka a dirty vodka martini with blue-cheese olives).
It’s a cold soup.