But good news: thanks to the gravitational pull of the city (or something), the chef is drawing closer. To Clarendon.
His new place is called Water & Wall, it’s got a whopping (by comparison) 80 seats, and it opens on Saturday night.
This could be the only place you can go to eat food from a chef who’s a former engineer and who also cooked at New York’s Momofuku. Fortunately, you’ll find more Asian influences than math on the menu, like Burmese Bouillabaisse, pork shoulder with chow-chow relish and pork belly with green-papaya salad.
If a backslapping business dinner is in the works, head to the semicircular booths looking out the windows. If you ask nicely, the chef will also serve you a tasting menu there.
But this is more of a date spot, with glass everywhere and moody lighting coming from suede-and-canvas chandeliers. Start out with a basil gin and tonic at the copper-and-granite bar. And then... well, maybe just stay there. It’s separated from the dining room by a copper curtain.
Lest anyone sees you in the suburbs.