Horse Thief

To Catch a Thief

A Downtown Corner of Texas-Style Barbecue

A94195206371b12608379e624f68c5ae6acf2d465 PhotosHorse Thief
Texas barbecue, LA-style.

Two things probably just happened when you read those words.

A brief shiver of foreboding... and then a sudden, desperate need to go eat some of this barbecue immediately.

Find your way to the smoky scents of Horse Thief, a rule-breaking home for ribs, slaw and sweet tea on a funky patio next to Grand Central Market, officially opening today.

It’s nothing fancy here, a couple of ordering windows just to the right of the market entrance in the middle of all that très-Downtown scenery. But honestly, a fancy Texas barbecue place would be kind of weird. And so, you’ll be coming by this place for a quick work lunch. Or a blind date with a lawyer. Or during break on jury duty. (Hopefully not that.)

Regardless, you’re here for beef brisket, pork spare ribs, chicken (okay, probably not chicken) or pulled pork, which you’ll get on an orange tray and transport to a communal table on the shady patio beyond. The expected sides come with a bit of a California-2013 twist—like the blue-cheese-and-bacon potato salad and the fennel-apple slaw. Sure, maybe fennel is blasphemy.

But we’re not in Texas, so...

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