Explore cocktails. Right past the door: you’ll find the 20-seat marble bar, which frankly hits all the bases—10 taps, 24 large-format bottles, three small barrels aging spirits and cocktails. Oh, and a drink with “beef ice” (the Vegan Sacrifice, which also has scotch, ginger and cayenne).
Enjoy a little theater with your dinner. Sure, you could grab a table along the semicircular window. But the more interesting play is at the counters that face each station (rotisserie, raw bar, bakery) of the open kitchen. There, you can stare into the pizza oven while you dig into a wood-roasted beef shin. Or ask the pasta guy for a tip while awaiting your flight of four country hams.
Celebrate privately. Someone got engaged. You conquered a hangnail. Whatever. Book the long, 48-seat private room. Time for punch bowls like tequila with hibiscus and black pepper, wines from one of the restaurant’s eight cellars and family-style meats like whole lamb shoulder.
Nothing wrong with going all Viking now and then.