Unless, of course, your history lesson comes with a bowl of brandy punch and a half-dozen preparations for oysters.
Introducing America Eats Tavern, José Andrés’s new six-month-only, pop-up paean to US grub, taking reservations now for a... wait for it... July 4 opening in the former Café Atlántico space.
Think of this as a whirlwind tour of 250 years of American eating and drinking—with plenty of avant-garde touches, of course.
The whole place has gotten a coat of white paint and some vintage metal stars and New Deal–style posters on the walls. You’ll start downstairs at the bar, where cocktails are broken down into “Colonial” (think Port Wine Sangaree) and “Golden Age” (Brooklyn cocktail, champagne cocktail). But if you’re with a group, you may want to invest in a massive bowl of Franklin’s Milk Punch, the recipe taken from a letter of Ben Franklin’s.
Then you’ll ascend the steps, past a giant mobile of antique windows and black-and-white photos from the National Archives, and settle into the dining room over rustic fare like Kentucky Burgoo with Rabbit or Eisenhower’s own stew recipe. And if you’re feeling more Roaring ’20s than Dust Bowl, opt for oysters Rockefeller or crab cakes with pickled vegetables.
It beats a breadline.