It’s the cycle of life: birth, death, regeneration.

Like nightclubs. They’re born, they die, and new Indian markets/chai bars/supper clubs arise in their place.

Take a few steps down to Pansaari, a subterranean temple to Indian food that isn’t really a restaurant, now open Tuesday through Sunday in the former Chaos nightclub on 17th.

You’ll find three big rooms, ornate tiles and repurposed wood from Indian boats. (See it here.) There might be a world-music band playing. There’ll definitely be some rugs and Indian art for sale.

And you’ll be here for one of these reasons...

A low-pressure first date. Take a seat at the chai bar. Order some Indian coffee, cardamom ice cream, maybe some pupusas. Or chai.

A fifth date at your place. An exotic one at that, what with the 80-odd Indian spices, local produce and prepared Indian dishes in the market.

A supper club. Starting in a few weeks, they’ll hold multicourse, weekend feasts at the demonstration kitchen and communal tables in back.

A totally unorthodox meeting spot. You can reserve those communal tables (at no cost) anytime—and make full use of the chalkboard wall behind them for brainstorming sessions.

Or pupusa-poem-writing sessions.