In other words, it doesn't. And yet it does.
Which brings us to Gaia Ristorante, now taking reservations for its Monday debut at the Hilton Bentley hotel.
From the folks who brought you go-to casual Italian spots like Carpaccio, Villagio and Luna Cafe comes an upscale counterpart more in the vein of Casa Tua or Quattro (read: save it for your bigger nights).
The bright restaurant sits in the back of the oceanfront hotel, just enough removed from the South of Fifth fray to create a quiet date-spot atmosphere. Yellow roses, toffee-colored leather chairs and a clean marble bar all add to the understated romance.
Wherever you land for dinner (we like the outdoor patio by the pool), start with the Mozz-Bar, a for-the-table serving of buffalo, bocconcini and burrata mozzarella with roasted peppers and Parma prosciutto. Move on to the black cod with porcini mushrooms, or speck-wrapped scallops over blonde raisins.
You know you're doing OK when even the raisins are blonde.