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Published November 01, 2012

Magnum, P.I.
A Tiny New Wine Den in Russian Hill

They say good things come in small packages.

That’s not 100% true. Good things come in big packages, too. Shaq. War and Peace. Really giant hot tubs. All big. All good.

That said, back to good things in small packages...

Raise your glass to Et Al., a stamp-sized den of champagne, riesling, Madeira and sherry, soft-opening tomorrow on Polk Street.

What this place lacks in size, it more than makes up for in seductive Parisian-style-parlor vibes: navy walls with white leather paneling, a backlit onyx bar and a custom chandelier crafted out of dangling wine glasses.

If you bring a date (hint: definitely bring a date), opt for one of the Carrara marble two-tops—preferably the one in the far back corner tucked next to the onyx bar.

Then, summon the wine. You’ve got riesling. Burgundies. Obscure wines from Georgia (the country). And bubbly poured out of magnums. All paired with things like jamón ibérico or lamb meatballs from Boulette’s Larder. You love those things.

There’s zero room for standing in the place. If you have to wait, head around the corner to Biondivino (same owner) and start with a round of Italian wine. Oh, and starting in a few weeks, you’ll also be able to get classic Italian espresso and savory breakfast bruschetta every morning.

Just in case the date goes that well.
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