Chemistry.

A thing that exists between you and a person across the table in a bistro.

Also, a thing that involves Erlenmeyer flasks.

And now, a thing that involves champagne in Erlenmeyer flasks between you and that person across the table.

Don’t look at us. It’s science.

Study up at Urchin Bistrot, a bi-level wonder of modern Parisian-ness from the owners of Ame and Terra, opening tonight in the old Slanted Door space in the Mission.

Nobody’s giving you the hard sell here, but there’s definitely a moody French thing going on. Salvaged woods, chalkboard menus, an intimate mezzanine overhead and a sepia mural that looks like Paris... if Paris had the Armory visible in the background. Huh.

Anyway, so you’ll see all that as you make your way up to that mezzanine. You could start with a Monty Suarez (tequila, Bénédictine, Cynar) or just get right to the champagne or wine—if you order something by the half-bottle, it’ll arrive in an Erlenmeyer flask. There’s no real reason why, but there’s also no real reason why not.

And then: oh, man. Potted duck-liver mousse. Steak tartare with fried oysters on top. Sea urchin in a pot.

Aha.

There’s the urchin.