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Published March 31, 2014

Chalk Hard
Matt Levine’s New SoHo Farmhouse

You know what SoHo doesn’t get enough credit for?

Its farmhouses.

Seriously, criminally underappreciated farmhouses down there.

For example: Chalk Point Kitchen, a cozy new wooded homestead of friendly dinners from Matt Levine, aka the gent who brought you Sons of Essex, the Eldridge and more. They’ve got a Michelin-starred chef, and they’re taking reservations now for Thursday’s opening.

The best way to approach this place is to treat it like a game of I Spy. Your quarries: antique recipe books, a massive scythe, herbs and succulents growing right above your banquette, and at least six decorative roosters. Your prize for spotting these things: lamb loin. (It’s also your prize if you somehow don’t spot these things.)

Bring some friends, post up at the communal table and focus your energies on taking down the rainbow trout and the côte de boeuf, both for two. Sorry—“for two.”

Oh, and you’ll probably wonder about that stairway you passed on your way in. That’s natural. It leads to the Handy Liquor Bar, a Wurlitzer-equipped rock-and-roll den of cocktails. It’ll be open shortly for Sazeracs, juleps and the supplest tufted-leather sofas interior design budgets can buy.

Seriously. You’d be amazed what supple is going for these days.
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Photo: Oleg March