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New York Home > Food > High Steaks

Published July 26, 2013

High Steaks
Quality Meats Does Italian

Italy:

Shaped like a boot.

Laughingstock ex–prime minister.

Great at food.

Today, we talk the food...

Meet Quality Italian, two airy floors of old-world Italian-American food worship from the Quality Meats folks, taking reservations now for Tuesday. Here’s what you need to know going in.

The first floor’s nothing.
You may think the towering room at the entrance with its huge wooden cases of porchetta rub and bags of pasta (which, yes, are for sale) and the brass bar is the whole situation. It’s not. It’s merely a place to pop in for post-work lobster fra diavolo rolls, housemade tea and a glass of red. That’s all.

Because up that marble staircase in back is...
Another bar, your standard colossal wall of wine and the panoramic-view-equipped dining room. This bar’s cocktail country—Calabrian pepper martinis, Milanese liqueur takes on the Moscow Mule. The dining room: a vast, real-estate-prices-be-damned ocean of white-tableclothed two- and four-tops with lighting made from butcher’s saws.

They haven’t forgotten their meaty roots.
There’s pasta. And occasional bivalves. But the heart of your meal here’s going to be the kind of steak that wilts salads on sight (and gets its own sauce made tableside). You’ve got a two-person veal shank, a bone-in sirloin and a sweet-gorgonzola-topped filet. It just goes on like that.

So yeah, it’s a health food joint.
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