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Published July 23, 2013

’Mami’s Family
Umami Burger, Finally in New York

It started in LA, and spread throughout the Southland.

Then it made its way up to San Francisco.

Then Miami.

Finally, finally—it’s coming to The Show...

Welcome to Gotham’s very own Umami Burger, a bi-level burger factory where the elusive fifth taste runs wild, throwing open the doors in Greenwich Village on Monday.

If you haven’t already heard of this, you must own some nice subterranean rock real estate. Also, we’ll educate you: they do stuff like make burgers out of Cubano sandwiches and bacon-wrapped scallops. And then lace said burgers with a savory, addictive concoction of sauces, dusts and proprietary ketchup. Along the way they’ve gotten pretty big. The owner even talked some smack about Shake Shack (cue shrieks of horror). So now, it’s your civic duty to decide their fate.

Their opening statement: the classic Umami Burger—mushrooms, caramelized onions, roasted tomato, parmesan crisp and umami ketchup. Then the case strengthens, with a burger covered in truffles and garlic aioli. Finally, closing arguments—an NYC-only, five-spice duck burger and a French dip version, also exclusive to us.

The place looks like, well, a clean, new burger joint (if all clean, new burger joints had full bars with umami-dusted cocktails). Think of it as a very casual and unlikely first-date spot. If they’re into it: keeper. If not...

Well, at least you got a burger out of it.
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Photo: Oleg March