Published September 24, 2012
M. Wells Is Back. And in a Museum.
Just some huge news out of the museum-cafeteria world today.
A comeback story. A tale of redemption. An inspirational saga. It’s even got a horse-related twist
It’s M. Wells Dinette
, the long-awaited revival of Queens’s most beloved foie gras–having
diner, now serving as MoMA PS1’s cafeteria and opening Thursday.
M. Wells once gave you reason to go to Queens. A reason involving escargot-implanted marrowbones. In a
diner. Then, one day, as quick as it came, it was gone. But now, like a phoenix rising from the ashes of a
bad lease agreement, it’s back.
If your third-grade snack time had consisted of foie gras flan, rabbit terrine and whipped-butter-and-caviar
sandwiches, it might have looked a little something like this. A chalkboard menu and rows of communal tables
and desks all facing forward toward the gleaming stainless-steel open kitchen. You’ll
have a seat and get acquainted with the new sensation that is deconstructed clam chowder (complete with
compartmentalized cafeteria tray).
Just know a couple things going in—first, it’s only open during museum hours and for weekend brunch. So
maybe you’ve got a “real bad cold coming on” that’s going to require a day off and a midday
“doctor’s visit.” Secondly, there’s horse tartare.
Didn’t see that one coming.
M. Wells Dinette
at MoMA PS1
22-25 Jackson Ave
(at 46th Ave)
Long Island City, NY 11101