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Food

New York Home > Food > Whole Hog

Published April 13, 2012

Whole Hog
Like Pulling Up a Chair at the Farmers’ Market

Farmers’ markets.

So great in theory.

Vegetables you’ve never heard of. Meats from cows that had daily hot-stone massages. Kumquats.

Then you realize you don’t know how to use an oven...

Leave it to Foragers City Table, a sparse, wooded retreat of mint-condition produce and entire animals behind Foragers City Grocer, open for dinner tonight.

This is the low-key, wine-on-tap first-date spot Chelsea needs. It’s basically a farmers’ market with a restaurant-sized chef’s table in the back. There are peppers, artichokes and other upstate produce that look juicy enough to devour, apple-style. All tinged with Asian spices and flanked by stuff like caramelized pork or slow-smoked lamb belly. Which you’re also free to eat apple-style.

When you first arrive, you’ll notice the market. Vegetables. Spinning chickens. Cookies. Classic market. Don’t linger. Just note everything that looks good (it’ll matter later). Then make your way past the bakery stand. And there it is: the oaken bar you’ll acquire your on-draft Sixpoints from, orbited by clusters of two-tops and island tables.

But let’s say pork porterhouses don’t do it for you. Time to get creative. As in “give me the entire back leg of a pig and roast it with some asparagus from the market” creative. Since the butcher buys only whole animals, they’ll make you any cut they’ve got.

Seems like the perfect time to get one named after you.
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Photo: Oleg March

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