The best nights at a wine bar are when you enter alone...

And you end up going home with pasta, coffee and mountains of cheese.

There you are leaving Union Larder, a market that thinks it’s a wine bar that thinks it’s a market, now soft-open atop Russian Hill from the owners of Little Vine.

If you’re just here to make wine happen: Yeah, hey, they can do that. Brown leather stools. An island of a zinc bar. Lots of windows. Racks and racks of bottles, and a few wines on tap, too. That all adds up to something called “atmosphere.” (See the slideshow here.)

If you’re cooking at your place tonight: It’s a little space here. So unfortunately there’s only room for exactly everything you need. Pasta. Sauce. Cocktail syrups. Jams and coffee beans for the morning after. All of it.

Oh, and if you just built a cheese cave: You’re facing one of the city’s best cheese selections. A hundred-plus options are in the fridge (and piled atop the fridge). And sure, the idea of a personal cheese cave seems ridiculous.

But someone probably once said that about wine cellars, too.