Getting the Boot
A New Italian Oasis in Beverly Hills

When a hotel renovates, sure, great, whatever.

But when it all culminates in a sprawling, sexy, modern Italian wonderland—live crudo bar, epic power dinners, alfresco martinis by a flaming waterfall—that definitely gets our attention. Introducing Culina, now taking reservations for its Wednesday debut.

Residing at the front corner of the Four Seasons (but with a separate entrance, if you want to dodge the press junkets), Culina is on a mission to make your whole day disappear. Come early for espresso, pastries and the paper, or take a seat outside when you want an excuse to leave your shades on during your power lunch. (Intimidation 101.)

Later on, start with covert drinks in the secluded lounge tucked behind the bar, before moving on to a seat at the crudo bar for Gamberetti Marinati (it's shrimp) and Dentice (red snapper). Then you're ready for sous-vide baby octopus, a brick-oven pizza, housemade pappardelle and Lombatina Capricciosa (a breaded veal chop) under a cascading Czechoslovakian chandelier. (The true hallmark of legit Italian.)

If you've brought a date, not your client, there's the Bistecca alla Fiorentina for Two—it's 28 ounces of prime T-bone.

That leaves at least 2 ounces for your date.